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Repair or Replace a Water Heater?

Older water heater beside a new unbranded tank on a dolly

A leaking tank body or a heater that sat in floodwater settles the question. Most other faults are parts, and the choice comes down to condition, household demand and whether you want to change fuel.

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Two faults that settle it

Water coming through the tank itself. Once the steel tank corrodes through, there is no repair. Water from a fitting, the drain valve or the relief-valve pipe is different and is often fixable, so find the first wet spot before deciding.

A heater that has been in floodwater. Metro Codes' guidance on water-damaged heaters says a gas or electric unit exposed to floodwater should be replaced. Controls and thermostats corrode, the insulation around the tank is nearly impossible to clean, and the relief valve can stick. Metro also advises having a licensed plumbing or mechanical contractor inspect the equipment before anything is restarted.

Faults that are usually worth repairing

On a tank that is dry and not badly rusted, these are normally parts jobs:

  • a burned-out heating element or failed thermostat on an electric heater
  • a pilot, thermocouple, igniter or gas control on a gas heater
  • a leaking drain valve or a relief valve that drips
  • a broken dip tube, which shows up as lukewarm water that runs out fast

Where condition tips the balance

There is no single age at which every heater should go. The signs that point toward replacement are rust at the base or around the pipe connections, repeat repairs within a short time, and heavy sediment that keeps rumbling after a flush. Metro Water's supply is moderately hard, so scale is part of normal wear here. Check the label for the manufacture date and the manufacturer's tank warranty, because a failure inside the warranty period can change the math.

A straight swap or an upgrade

A like-for-like replacement is the simplest job. Metro Codes says replacing a residential 50-gallon water heater generally does not need a permit. Changing fuel type, for example gas to electric, does need one, and it often brings a new electrical circuit or a gas line change with it. A tankless heater is a bigger change again: it needs a gas supply and venting sized for the unit, or a large electrical supply, plus regular descaling.

Before you approve either option

Ask for both options in writing. For a repair, get the part, the reason it failed and anything else that looks worn. For a replacement, get the capacity, fuel, haul-away, connectors and any permit. Our plumbing cost guide shows dated national planning ranges for a replacement. When you are ready to book, the water heater repair page lists what to tell your plumber.

Leaning one way? Call with the heater's age, fuel and symptoms.

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Related: Water Heater Repair & Replacement · Tankless Water Heaters · Gas Line Repair & Installation · What Plumbing Work Costs · Frozen & Burst Pipes in Nashville · Drain Cleaners & DIY Clogs · How to Choose a Plumber

Common questions

Look on the rating label for a manufacture date. If there isn't one, the serial number often encodes the month and year, and the manufacturer's website or customer line can decode it. Give your technician the age along with the brand and model, since it affects whether the tank warranty still applies.

It can be, if the tank is dry and the fault is a single part such as an element, thermostat or thermocouple. Rust at the base, repeat failures or rumbling that survives a flush point toward replacement. Ask your technician what else on the heater looks worn before paying for a part.

No. A tankless unit saves space and does not run out of hot water, but it needs a gas supply and venting sized for it, or a large electrical supply, and regular descaling. Ask for the flow rate your technician expects with your showers running at the same time.

Usually more than the heater. An electric model often needs a new dedicated circuit and a check that the panel has room for it, and the old gas line has to be capped safely. Going the other way needs a gas line and a vent. Ask for each piece, and who pulls which permit, in the written quote.

The model and capacity, fuel type, labor, removal of the old tank, connectors, the relief-valve discharge pipe, any drain pan or expansion tank, and who handles a permit if one is needed. Ask what would change the price if your plumber finds a problem once the old heater is out.

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